Archive for January, 2007

Bombay Marathon

January 30th, 2007 by Sheel

Thought for the post:
thought

So I guess I’ve come to a point where posting is becoming a little less frequent, and it seems like more of a chore (judging from my other Indicorps Fellows blogs, it seems like this is pretty common). I think this probably happens to every blog - I’m definitely there now, about 6 months after this blog started. I guess early on everything was new to me and it was fun to share it… now it seems like I’m in the grunt phase of my project and I just have a ton of stuff to get done and I’m not doing a whole lot of new and exciting stuff (it’s new and exciting to me, but I don’t think you’d think so by reading it)… I’ve gotten a bunch of emails and a couple of calls in the past few days asking if I’m ok since my last post was about typhoid and I hadn’t posted that I’ve gotten better… stupid move on my part.

I got over the Typhoid… In total I was sick for about a month… As soon as I didn’t have a fever for 2 days, I declared myself well enough to go to Bombay for the marathon, where I’d played a part in 10 kids from a rural area being able to come to Bombay to run the marathon. Everything was really really awesome.

On my way into Bombay, I picked up a newspaper (The Times of India), and saw this article about our kids on the back page of the paper:
marathon toi

I guess reading it gives you an idea about what we were trying to do, but as is typical of the Times of India, it’s riddled with inaccuracies, and they apparently did a lot of investigative reporting about Waifad (that is all completely inaccurate) without asking us, but I guess I’m doing a little bit of biting the hand that feeds, because it was really nice of them to write an article about our kids. I think the Hitavada and DNA also put out similar articles, but I didn’t get a chance to see them. We were really hoping for some coverage in Hindi or Marathi newspapers so that the kids (& their folks) could understand what was written but I don’t think we got any.

In Bombay, everything took a lot longer than I had budgeted for, especially transportation… When you have 12 people in 3 taxis and I’m in the first one telling the other taxis to follow me (at times I was the only one that knew directions), it doesn’t work… And none of the village kids have cellphones, so coordination was tough… We tried the “follow that taxi” thing several times, with disastrous results. We didn’t get to do everything I thought we could, but it didn’t really matter because we had such a blast with everything we did do.

why it’s hard to follow a particular taxi in Bombay:
taxis
picture was taken from the top of a double-decker bus

So the first day, we spent a ton of time registering for the marathon and looking for food, then we walked around the city showing a lot of the old architecture including the train station VT (Victoria Terminus)…

We then went to see the movie “Guru,” about a guy from a small village who makes it big in Bombay… I had high expectations for the movie, which were met entirely until the last 10 minutes, which was a huge let-down. Also, I felt like there were a few story-lines which were needlessly added in to make it a typical Hindi 3-hour movie… If you’ve seen the movie, I’m talking about Vidya Balan’s role in particular… could’ve cut atleast 30 mins there and lost almost none of the story… Anyway, the kids really enjoyed it… We then went back to our hotel, the Red Shield House (run by the Salvation Army), which was right behind the Taj Mahal hotel in Colaba, and proved to be the source of many bad jokes… While it was right behind the Taj, it was NOTHING like the Taj… We paid 150rs ($3.40, or like 1% of what the Taj would’ve cost) per bed, including breakfast. Damn good deal, but no sheets or even a lock on our door (well there was a lock but you could pull the door open even if it was locked)… Kind of like a hostel though, and from what I understand its the only hostel-like place to stay in Bombay. There were a lot of foreigners.

The next morning, we got up super-early because we were supposed to be interviewed by a few news channels before the marathon… We didn’t really know where we were going in the marathon and the kids ended up getting into the holding area to start the marathon and couldn’t get to the press, and me and Savitri thought it’d be dumb if just we were on, so we decided to hold off on the interviews until after the marathon. We did, however, get press access, so we were right at the starting line with all of the reporters and cameras, which was kind of cool. We saw everyone pass RIGHT in front of us, including all of the celebrities that I didn’t care about, but I totally missed seeing all of the kids from Waifad and my Indicorps friends that were running.
marathonstart

The first group of our kids to finish the half-marathon did so in about 1 hour 45 minutes, which is really good timing… One of the guys was complaining about how shoes were slowing him down and he was wishing he had ran barefoot. He had a ton of blisters from wearing shoes, I guess he just wasn’t used to them:
4
First 4 + me and Savitri (That’s a W for Waifad I’m holding up, I don’t think the other guys got it)

The rest of the guys and girls came shortly afterwards… Ujwala (who I cooked with and had lots of fun with the first time I went to Waifad) had us all totally scared because we were waiting at the finish line and we didn’t see her for an hour after everyone else had crossed. We went a little crazy searching for her, asking race officials to help etc… In the end we got a phonecall from her asking where we were - turns out she had gone way past us and gotten her certificate and everything. We missed our interviews on CNN-IBN and Aaj Tak during this time, which would’ve been nice so that the kids parent’s could see them on TV.

After a long nap, we went to Chowpatty beach… Just sort of hung out and enjoyed the place, sang lots of songs and had a generally great time.
chowpatty

We were supposed to wake up super early and leave immediately for Essel World the next morning… Essel World, is like the Disney World of India (but much smaller)… We ended up getting up kind of late, and then the kids wanted to take so many pictures of themselves in Bombay - we spent about an hour at the Gateway of India taking pictures:

Kids w/ Gateway of India in background


Everyone w/ Taj Hotel in background

Then, after a taxi ride (which took really long because we lost 2 of the taxis behind us), bus ride, train ride, rickshaw ride, and a ferry ride, we finally reached Essel World (took much longer than anticipated). Big thanks to Subhash Chandra from the Zee group (which owns the park) and my uncle who made the connection to him, because we got HOOKED UP at the park!

Throughout my weekend in Bombay, I felt like a celebrity that was treating my marathon buddies that don’t have much to an extravagantly good time, spending more and doing more than my parents would have done for me… Throughout the trip, I was a little unsure of how I felt about this… like was it too much for these kids who’ve spent their whole lives on a farm with not a lot of money to come to Bombay and have us pay for everything they needed and let them order 3 ice-creams after dinner if they wanted? I totally kept on thinking of Oprah Winfrey’s $40 million school for 150 kids in Africa, where she treats the kids as if they were her own… We definitely weren’t going crazy or anything, we ate at relatively cheap places and took public transportation for the most part, but it still seemed like I might not actually be making a difference in their lives, just giving them a momentary great time that they’ll remember forever. Anyway, as the weekend progressed I got over it - I think seeing the joy that they all experienced and the love that they had for those of us that made it possible was awesome… maybe not everything you do has to be sustainable and make a lasting impact, and maybe this trip to Bombay did make a positive lasting impact on the guys… I sure hope so. Or maybe this is just an indication of what I’ll be like as a grandfather.

Anyway, where I’m going with this is - our Essel World experience was out of this world. Zee hooked us up with a VIP escort to take us around the park, so we didn’t have to wait in any lines or pay for anything. Our escort knew that these were kids from a village and everything would be new to them, and made he it his mission to help them experience as much as they could in our short amount of time there. I was a little sick from the running around of the past few days, but I think the energy that the kids had sort of took me over the hump and I wanted to do everything with them…

Among many other firsts that weekend… it was their first time on a boat:

on a roller coaster:

in bumper cars, bowling, and ice skating:
Everyone fell a bunch of times while ice skating, but they had a total blast, and it was great to see them hold on to each other. I sort of love this I’ll help you while you help me, and if we fall we’ll both fall thing… (though this usually just meant that everyone fell together):



Here’s all of us when it was time to go (I was extremely sad):

The guy in the yellow shirt is Godfrey, our amazing escort (even called the next day to check that we had a great time!). I can’t say enough great things about the Essel/Zee Group for making the Essel World trip possible.

One thing to note is that Indians are often really serious when you take their pictures, and it’s hard to get them to smile for a camera… I never had that problem this weekend, and I don’t really know how to describe it, but I feel like these smiles were so incredibly genuine… it made me feel great (and really sad to leave)… The kids deserved it for their dedication to the marathon over the past couple of months (waking up at 5 and running for an hour before you farm all day doesn’t sound easy to me)… I was really happy to play a part in making it possible for them - I now know what it means when some of my fellows talk about “their kids.”

and I love this sign on the road in Bombay:

Typhoid is terrible

January 16th, 2007 by Sheel

I have typhoid… it is transmitted by ingestion of food or water contaminated feces from an infected person… pretty gross.  The bacteria then multiplied in my blood stream of and were absorbed into my digestive tract.

I’ve actually been sick for the past 3 weeks, since I went to Bombay, and it might have been typhoid this whole time, but I thought I had something minor which got exacerbated by the pollution in Bombay and my meeting schedule (lots of running around)… when I came back to Ahmedabad, my sickness continued and then I finally went to the doc a few days later… who told me I had malaria.  I wasn’t getting better for a week so I had a blood test, and found that I have typhoid.  I think there’s a chance that I got it when I went to a meeting in the old city and drank a 2 rupee lemon soda and the guy crushed the ice by his dirty hands and put it in.  There are 1000’s of other ways I could’ve gotten it - I haven’t really been careful about my sanitation.  Anyway, I’ve basically been in bed for the past week, but I feel a little better today and I hope that I’ll be back working in a couple of days.

What’s been happenning to me is that I have really high fevers - I’ve recorded 104 a few times, and I’m freezing cold so I put on everything around me like 4 blankets… and then a little bit later I take everything off and I’ve sweat so much that its wet all around me.  Also, there was a time when my stomach couldn’t hold anything… I’ve been on a liquid diet, but even then… I’d drink my food and then 2 minutes later it’d come out.  Anyway, yesterday I was really really sick of this liquid diet business (hallucinating about food) and I used my buddy Google - yeah yeah, “If you trust Google more than your doctor then maybe it’s time to switch doctors.” to find out what a typhoid diet should be.  I found out that there is a ton of stuff I can eat, which I did, and I think it might be why I’m feeling a bit better today. 

I totally understand how people die from this disease (it’s not just on Oregon Trail either)… A few days ago, if I left the house for 5 minutes I’d come back with a 104 degree temperature.  If I was homeless, it’d be really tough, with no protection from the cold.  Also, the medicine was really expensive - about 1,000 rupees ($22 - wouldn’t even cover the co-pay in dollars, but its a lot for medicine in India - another reminder of how the pharma industry rips off Americans) plus I paid for some blood tests and injections, so I think the total was probably around 1,500 rupees. 

I’m bitter that I completely missed Uttarayan (the kite festival - famous in Ahmedabad), but I’m fine and I hope to be back working in the next couple of days. 

Bad, and Good

January 5th, 2007 by Sheel

War does not determine who is right – only who is left. 
~Bertrand Russell

I’ve been sort of unlucky the past few weeks… I’ve been sick, I lost my wallet, and I got hit by a motorcycle when riding my bike (bike’s all messed up, I’m mostly fine)… I finally went to the doc yesterday and found out that I have malaria. Don’t feel sorry for me though, everything sounds a lot worse than it actually is… The worst thing about the Malaria is that I feel supercold and then put on every article of clothing and blankets I can find and then a few minutes later I feel ridiculously hot and I take everything off… it’s not that bad - this is all pretty small stuff in the large scheme.

Anyway, the good news: I love live music, and in the past couple of weeks, I’ve heard the most amazing live music, all for free! I’ve been to concerts by Shankar Ehsaan Loy & Shreya Ghoshal (If you don’t recognize the names, you definately would recognize the music), Sivamani & Louis Banks & a bunch of other classical guys (I never know their names), and then just yesterday a friend of mine was volunteering at Seva Cafe and a friend came by and asked if anyone wanted to go to this concert being put on… featuring Hariprasad Chaurasia. We went to the concert - which started at like 11pm and lasted til 2! Pretty cool. It turns out this is a free couple of weeks of concerts put on by a school of music in the area. I have no idea how they can put on such concerts for free… I remember helping to organize a Hariprasad Chaurasia concert a couple of years back and how much of a pain it was - getting all of these performers must be a nightmare… http://www.saptak.org/forthcoming.htm
The list of performers is literally a who’s who in the Indian classical music scene…
Looking forward to Zakir and definately the folk artists of Rajasthan.

Here’s Shankar Mahadevan gettin’ down - his background dancers were really hilarious:

A plug for some music I’ve been listening to for the past couple of months: The soundtracks to Salaam-e-Ishq (Shankar Ehsaan and Loy) and Guru (Rehman) are excellent. My favorite songs are Dil Kya Kare (Adnan Sami) from Salaam-e-Ishq and Tere Bina (A R Rehman & Chinmayee) from Guru… definately download the tracks.

New Year… No Goa party this year, but it was good. I was in Ahmedabad. Me and Vijay took some of the homeless kids who hang out near our office to this complex nearby that had Santa (Santa was a skinny Indian guy with a fake beard and red suit - I wish I had taken my camera because it was kind of hilarious) and some music to dance to. While we were there some lady handed 100rs to Vijay and told him to spend it on the kids as we saw fit, and then ran away before we could even say anything… It was a super-nice gesture… We ended up buying the kids icecream - they had a blast, and it was a nice way to celebrate the new year.

A(nother) reason not to go to McDonalds: The day before new year, Vijay had bought the kids food at McDonalds… paid for McAloo Tikis for all of the kids. The manager came over and kicked out all of the homeless kids, with no explanation, though their meals had been paid for… there were a lot of fighting words, but in the end they had to leave. 

Check out www.swajana.com, a video-blog some of my friends have put together in an attempt to show daily life in India through the eyes of people who live here.  It’s awesome.